Jesse Scaccia is a UConn grad (education/English) and was an MFA student at Old Dominion University. He returned to South Africa many times to continue work he did at a home for boys and young men in Cape Town. He offered to share an article he wrote for a travel magazine.
What follows is a piece on South Africa Jesse wrote for a travel magazine.
ROLLS-ROYCE OWNERS' CLUB 2009 DESK DIARY: SOUTH AFRICA
By Jesse Scaccia
Intro: This is Africa?
You step off the plane in Johannesburg’s O R Thambo International Airport and, much to your surprise, you are not on a dirt landing strip shaded by banana trees. The baggage handlers are not wearing the colorful tribal costumes of their Zulu Nation ancestors. What makes it even worse, there’s not a zebra, lion, or even a baboon in sight.
You ask yourself: Where’s Africa?
A reality check- of which there is an abundance of in South Africa- hits you faster than the hot, dry air. O R Thambo is big, serving almost 20 million people a year, and it is growing. Johannesburg is a modern, hazy, dangerous, industrial city. The ‘natives’ wear sneakers and blue jeans, and constantly send text messages on their cell phones. The wild animals are confined to game parks and zoos.
Forget about the Jungle Book/National Geographic/Tarzan images you’ve got in your head. Dirty and sublime, busy yet still on ‘African time’, inspiring and heart-breaking, breath-taking and life taking, welcome to the real Africa.
Sidebar: Ingratiating yourself to the locals
- One word goes a long way. In Xhosa (which is dominant in Cape Town), unjani means ‘How are you?’ In Zulu (the most spoken language of the blacks in Johannesburg), kunjani is the equivalent. Say this one word and watch your new friend’s eyes widen in appreciation of your attempt to take a baby step into their world.
- Shake hands like a local. The second quickest way to make friends with an African is to shake hands the right way. You start out with a ‘normal’ handshake. Next, flick your wrist up in standard American ‘soul shake’ style. Finally, reach your thumb toward your partner and give what I call the ‘thumb print kiss.’
- Respect your elders. Older people, even by just a few years, are shown respect in African cultures. Refer to African men older than yourself as baba and women as ma.
- Don’t treat the townships like a zoo. The people in the township know that you’re visiting because they live in extreme poverty. Don’t treat the locals like animals by snapping pictures of them as if they are non-sentient creatures. Take some time and get to know them, and then ask if a picture is appropriate.
- Things are never as simple as black and white. South Africans are still sensitive about race, so be careful not to lump all white or black people together. There are two main white groups: the Afrikaners, who are of Dutch decent, and those of British decent. There are dozens of black groups, ranging from the dominant Zulu and Xhosa, down to the very proud immigrants of other African countries like Zimbabwe, Tanzania, and Nigeria.
Sidebar: Safety in South Africa: Love Everyone, Trust No One
- ATMs. Stick to ATM machines located indoors in grocery stores or hotels. Be very careful with your PIN, as the latest trend among thieves in SA is a new technology that allows them to make an imprint of your card while it is in the machine. They then use that to make a dummy card, and, along with the PIN they got from looking over your shoulder, they drain your account. Don’t believe it? It happened to me.
- Robots are dangerous. Traffic lights in SA are called ‘robots,’ and they are still the most popular crime sites in the country. (Shattered glass can seem as ubiquitous as concrete below South African tires). To be safe keep your windows rolled up and locked, and leave enough room between you and the car in front so that you can pull around for a quick getaway, if necessary.
- Except for in the most populated, well-lit sections of Cape Town (such as Long Street), walking after nightfall should be avoided. Never, ever walk alone.
- The townships should be entered only when accompanied by an African local. The townships can be inspiring, and house scores of lovely people that I am proud to call my friend, but they are still slums.
- Beware the baboons. Not all dangerous figures in South African are bipedal. Baboons, which are known to sometimes go on post-adolescent ‘walk-abouts’ through city and suburban areas, are vicious creatures. Do not try to pet them unless you happen to have a spare hand in your suitcase.
Section: South African History & Economics
The history of South Africa begins with the advent of humanity itself. The oldest controlled use of fire, dated back to over 1 million years ago, was found in South Africa at what is now called the Cradle of Humankind, just outside of Johannesburg.
For most of the last 400 years SA has been stirred mercilessly in the imperialist cauldron. It has been held by the Bantu, The Dutch and their next evolution, the Boers, the British, Shaka Zulu and his tribe, and the systematically racist National Party, which held power for some 46 years. 14 years ago SA was finally returned to its native sons and daughters through democratic elections.
Apartheid lasted from 1946 through 1994. During that time blacks were stripped of their citizenship. Interracial dating, sex, and marriage were illegal. The blacks and coloureds (those of mixed race) were forced from their homes into informal settlements known as townships, including the infamous Soweto. Blacks and coloureds were kept uneducated through the Bantu Education Act of 1953. Bantu education trained non-whites for service and labor jobs. Even through the 1970s, spending on white students surpassed spending on non-whites at a rate of ten to one.
The end of Apartheid began with the election of FW de Klerk in 1990. Facing a falling economy, increasingly bloody protests from blacks, and the floundering power of the National Party, de Klerk set to negotiating with the African National Congress, the dominant black party. Nelson Mandela was elected president on May 9, 1994.
To a visitor it may, to a degree, feel like Apartheid never ended. About 80% of the 43-million population is black. Over half of blacks are unemployed and the vast majority live in the abject poverty of the townships.
Through the essential slave-labor of the Apartheid government the country built a powerful economy that remains strong today. South African has the strongest economy in Africa, and the 24th largest in the world. The dollar has continued to gain leverage on South Africa’s currency, the rand, since Apartheid. The exchange rate, to SA’s economy’s dismay, has gone from a near-even .77 to 1 rand/dollar exchange in 1980, to a 3.62 rand/dollar exchange in 1995, to the current exchange you’ll find today at roughly 7 rand per dollar.
Sidebar: Getting Around South Africa
- Trains. The last time my (South African) girlfriend’s brother rode the train his shoes were stolen while he was asleep. Trains are to be avoided.
- Mini-bus. These look like a mix between mini-vans and the short busses from high school. These are safe in Cape Town during the day, and your best bet for getting around. Mini-busses leave from atop the train station in downtown Cape Town (along Adderley and Strand Streets), and they tend to cost under R5 per ride (about 75 cents). Be prepared to be smashed thigh to thigh with locals and to have your ears blown out by the blaring hip hop, but it is a really fun, genuinely African experience. Only ride mini-busses in broad daylight, and not at all in Johannesburg.
- Taxi cabs. All-in-all a safe bet. Many cab drivers will recognize you as a tourist and won’t turn on the meter. Either negotiate a price beforehand or ask them to turn the meter on.
- Flying. According to something called the World Airport Awards, South Africa has the three best airports in Africa in Cape Town, Johannesburg, and Durban. SA’s airports are completely modern and as risk free as any airport in the States, though its best to keep valuables such as cameras and jewelry in your carry-on baggage, as these are known to disappear between lift-off and landing. There are a few airlines that run cheap flights between SA’s major cities. These include Mango (flymango.com), Kulula.com, and 1time (1time.aero.za). Flights can often be had between South Afica’s major cities for less than R1.000 (about $75).
Section: Safari
Now this is Africa.
You are riding in a topless Hummer-type vehicle. The squawks of wild birds and the growls of unseen wildebeest rise above the engine. The African sky is bright blue with mottles of white. It seems to be twice as big as any sky in America. Three times as big. You are wondering how that’s possible when the driver comes to an abrupt halt. You crane your neck around the Japanese tourist’s hat. And there they are: two lionesses guarding the intersection. They look like the marble lions outside the public library in New York City, except these girls have coats that shine like polished gold and muscles that ripple even while resting.
The tour guide slides his finger against the trigger of his elephant gun. Just to be safe, he says. Everyone should keep perfectly still. Just to be safe, he says again.
It bears repeating: Now this is Africa.
No trip to the proverbial Dark Continent is complete with a safari. Here are two suggestions.
Mabula Game Lodge
reservations@lodge.mabula.co.za
Mabula is located about two hours from Johannesburg, deep enough into the bush to feel like you’re, well, out in the bush. The rooms are luxurious while still feeling reasonably ‘tribal.’ Amenities at Mabula include a gym, private helicopter transfers, quad bike safaris, events for kids, and even archery. Mabula claims to be malaria free and, with minimal luck, you will see all of South Africa’s ‘Big 5’ (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and wildebeest).
Probably the best way to get up close and personal with the animals is to take a safari on horseback. According to our guide, when the animals see a human on horseback they consider us to be extensions of the horse, so they don’t get spooked. I was able to get within a foul shot of a wild giraffe and her children. This experience will make you feel happy like a little kid.
Kruger National Park
Kruger, established in 1898 and as large as England, features a dizzying array of species, including 336 trees, 49 fish, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and 147 mammals. Hazy post-industrial Johannesburg it is not.
Kruger is just a four hour drive from Johannesburg, but for those frequent fliers three airports adjoin the park. The southern section of the Park is serviced by the Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (KMIA), the central section by Hoedspruit Airport, and the northern section by Phalaborwa Airport. Airlines flying to these airports are SAAirlink and Nationwide Airlines.
There are so many tours, price ranges, an options at Kruger that it is worth spending some time on the commercial website: krugerpark.co.za.
If time and/or budget should force you to choose between South Africa’s cities or her countryside, without hesitation choose the Africa of your dreams over the complicated metropolitan Africa of reality.
Sidebar: Eating Out
- Tipping . South African’s tip 10%, if at all. Given that a meal at most South African restaurants will cost you less than R50 ($7), feel free to improve inter-country relations and tip more.
- They don’t suffer picky eaters. South Africa isn’t America, where it’s common to order a hamburger along with 7 adjectives and specifications. In South Africa they order what’s on the menu and then they eat it.
- Try the local delicacies. Especially in the townships, you will be offered such indescribables as fried chicken heads and feet, fried worms, and boiled sheep head (known as a ‘smiley’ due to the visage of a grin on the sheep’s face after the boiled skin shrinks). Try them. Heck, South Africans have been around since fire. What they eat won’t hurt you.
Section: Johannesburg
Ask a resident of Johannesburg what the best thing to see in their city is, and you’re likely to get a curious response: Cape Town.
Is that the name of a club? A monument? No, they’ll say. Skip Johannesburg and head to Cape Town, if you know what’s good for you.
It’s true that Johannesburg (known as Jozi or Joburg to locals) offers little in architectural charm, physical beauty, or even accessibility in its very pro-capitalist residents. That said, there are some worthwhile sites in this city that, truth be told, should be little more than a stopover on the way to safari or Cape Town.
Where to stay:
An affordable option is The Backpacker’s Ritz in the Dunkeld section of Jozi. The Ritz, which is the oldest hostel in Johannesburg, has a fascinating history. The building sits high on a hill and was originally used as a look-out post and soldiers barracks during the Boer Wars. After the war it became a school to teach Boer doctrine, but when that closed down the circus moved in. Literally. The downstairs dorms used to be a lion hold.
The Ritz is clean and fun, but more importantly it is safe. In Johannesburg high security walls and electric fences are a necessity, not a sign of paranoia, and the Ritz has both. It is also within walking distance of a number of shops, cinemas, and one of Johannesburg’s best malls.
To book check out the website: backpackers-ritz.co.za. Dorm beds can be had for as little as R100 (about $14) per night.
I recommend staying outside the city, if possible. One lovely option is Aloe Ridge, located in a valley in the Cradle of Humankind about 45 minutes from the city. Aloe Ridge is situated in the middle of a game reserve. Zebras freely roam the pool area among the tourists. My last time at Aloe Ridge I watched a full-grown baboon drink tea from a proper china cup right in the lobby. Take a walk along one of Aloe Ridge’s many hiking trials and you’re liable to hear the roar of a wild lion spill through the valley.
A standard room can be had for R600 (under $100) a night, while a suite will cost you R1.100. Visit the website for details: aloeridgehotel.com.
Tea Time in Jozi:
The practice of having afternoon tea is so ingrained in South African culture that even the worst criminals during Apartheid were afforded their daily cup. Probably the most lovely place to have tea in Joburg is the Westcliff Hotel. It sits high above the city and features one of the few truly beautiful views of the city. Westcliff.co.za for reservations.
Going out:
The undisputed most chic and happening neighborhood in Johannesburg is called Melville. It is where Johannesburg’s young and beautiful play at night and, as a bonus, it might be the only neighborhood in the city where walking in the streets in the evening is safe. There will be plenty of cabs lined up to take you home.
Soweto:
A township tour is necessary in order to see how the average South African lives. What you’ll find in Soweto (Southwest township) are handmade shacks made of tin and scraps of wood. There is a waterspout per neighborhood, bedroom floors are dirt, and bathrooms are communal. The townships depicted in the movie Totsi gave a realistic view of life there. The film is recommended viewing before your visit to SA. There are so many township tours of Soweto, and businesses come and go almost on a daily basis. It is best to ask your hotel concierge for advice on the safest and most knowledgeable tour guide.
Sidebar: Preparing for 2010
South Africa in 2009 has three primary sources of pride:
1) Nelson Mandela, who many believe will be seated two spots right of the Father when he dies.
2) The 2007 world champion rugby team, the Springboks.
3) The 2010 FIFA World Cup of soccer.
Stadiums are being assembled all over the country. Additions are being built to the airports in Johannesburg and Cape Town. There are grand plans to tear down large swaths of the townships (the parts visible from the highway, at least) in favor of more humane conditions.
It is hard to overstate the importance of the 2010 World Cup to South Africa. Optimists hope that the influx of tourists and rand can help propel SA to first world status. Cynics worry out loud that if both Mandela should die and the games be unsuccessful (or taken away, as has been threatened), South Africa could be propelled into the racial/tribal civil war that has been the fate of so many of its African sisters.
Of the ten stadiums throughout SA that will host matches, the crown jewel of the games will be Cape Town’s Green Point Stadium. The stadium sits within walking distance of the Atlantic Ocean and features a stunning view of Table Mountain. FIFA, soccer’s governing committee, requested that the stadium hold 60,000 people for the finals. After the games the 13,000-person upper tier of the stadium will be removed to make for a more modest stadium.
Section: Cape Town
Cape Town is everything that Johannesburg is not, and that’s a good thing. Hailed as the best city in Africa or the Middle East by Travel + Leisure magazine, the Mother City has breath-taking views at every turn, an interesting lay-out, and the kind of laid-back locals that will make you feel at home from the first ‘howzit?’
Where to stay:
If you’re on a budget you can’t do better than The Backpack (backpackers.co.za). It features lovely, home-like communal rooms, a friendly staff, but most importantly it is close to the action of Long Street but not so close that you’ll be kept up all night. Beds in the dorm go for as little as R115 (less than $20).
The <Mount Nelson Hotel claims to be the most iconic luxury hotel in Cape Town, and it is. Luxury has its price. A suite in the high season can run up to R14.905 (over $2,000) a night, while the lower end rooms go for the bargain price of just under $1,000/a night (R5.875). Over half of the population of South Africa live in abject poverty but hey, who’s counting. Mountnelson.co.za
Where to shop:</span>
The best shopping in Cape Town takes place at the V & A Waterfront, located in the city, and in the ultra-posh Camp’s Bay, on the other side of Table Mountain from the city. Both have their charms. The Waterfront has sea lions that romp and bark on the docks, and a series of street performers that will have you reaching for your camera over and over. Camp’s Bay, South Africa’s equivalent to The Hampton’s, is set along a beautiful stretch of coastline. There are numerous lovely places to shop, eat, and play in Camp’s Bay.
If you’re looking for the tribal death masks and giraffe carvings as proof of your African adventure, the best place to check out is the Green Point Market, next to the new stadium. It is open all day on Sundays. Make sure to check out Me’kasi, a brand of clothing, jewelry and notebooks made by the enterprising residents of a local home for boys.
Outdoors Cape Town:
With oceans, mountains, and a lovely climate year-round, Cape Town is quietly one of the best outdoor cities in the world, so make sure to bring your wet suit and hiking boots. The tourists hike up the majestic Table Mountain (the cable cars are fun, anyhow), so I recommend taking a mini-cab down Main Road to nearby Devil’s Peak. If you’re an experienced hiker there is an exhilarating trail up an old waterfall canyon. Be careful of the fog, though. It is cold, wet, and brings visibility to dangerously low levels.
If surfing is your thing, I recommend checking out the near-perfect waves at Llandudno, a short drive from the Camp’s Bay crowds. A wetsuit/board combo can be rented for about $10. Another option is to head out to Muizenberg, which is also a popular whale-watching site.
As charming as Cape Townians can be, the most winsome of locals are found at Boulders in picture-perfect Simon’s Town. I’ll give you a hint: they’re little, their skin looks like slicked formal wear, they waddle, and no, they’re not just found in arctic climates.
Going out:
Camp’s Bay and Long Street are fun, but for a more organic nightlife experience head to the city’s student section, Observatory. Known as ‘Obs,’ this is considered to be the most truly integrated neighborhood in South Africa. Grab a Black Label at the quirky Touch of Madness or the eclectic Ganesh, where there is often also often fantastic live music.
Robben Island:
A trip to Cape Town wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Robben Island, the island prison where Nelson Mandela was held. Tours are lead by former inmates of the island, and can often be emotional for tourist and guide alike. For information on tours visit robben-island.co.za.
Conclusion: Only in Africa
South Africa truly has a little bit of everything: luxury and poverty, lions and penguins, and both grand hopes and terrifying fear wrapped in the preparations for the 2010 World Cup. When in South Africa you must be prepared for anything, including to be delighted and amazed.
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